Reflections on GB Road: Delhi’s largest Red Light Area

Credits: India TV

Few would be able to proclaim themselves lucky enough to boast of a probation period in the Indian Police Service spent in Delhi 6. Old Delhi, with its charms and squalor, traders and pickpockets, markets and monuments, has a unique story emanating from every alley. One of these is GB Road, Delhi’s largest, and one of India’s oldest red-light areas.

GB Road is nestled between Lahori Gate and Ajmeri Gate, finding itself right outside what would have once been the fort walls of Shahjahanabad. Part of this road, particularly towards the Ajmeri Gate side, is dotted with kothis on the first and second floors which house sex workers. Meanwhile, the ground floors are reserved for the market which operates during the day. By the evening, as the traders down their shutters, the street comes alive with women, descending from their kothis, adorned in colourful dresses and sarees, ready to woo the night.

Credits: Aaj Tak

One night, as I patrolled the areas within the jurisdiction of my assigned Police Station, my curiosity drove me to venture into the area of the neighbouring Police Station, which houses these kothis. I wanted to learn more about them, their lives, and how I could help them.

As they saw a police officer walking through their street, many of the women rushed upstairs, perhaps fearing imposition of the Immoral Traffic (Prevention) Act, 1956. Only one braved the onslaught of the khakhi and stayed put. I asked her where she was from, and she said Bangalore. She told me the Kothi number she belonged to and said she had come here to make some money. By this time, some more women had encircled us, each curious to hear what the police officer had to say.

The heady women around me turned out to be from Nepal, Karnataka, Uttar Pradesh, Bengal as well as Delhi. Most of them had come to earn their daily bread, and they found sex work remunerative enough to sustain their children and families. Uniformed personnel don’t receive the luxury of candour that civilians do, and therefore, the women around me emphatically assured me that they had come out of their own volition and their lives were comfortable.

Truth be told, I had gone there with a latent agenda. I wanted to reform them, to help them, maybe even wean them out of sex work. After all, sex work, apart from the occupational hazards, is deeply stigmatic in our society, giving the common impression that their agency is entirely negated. However, what stayed with me, more than any of my preconceived notions, was something one woman said. She came from UP and had told her family she works in a company, because it was an accepted fact that her family would be unable to bear the weight of the stigma associated with her actual profession. After all, there were stories of women being honour killed, or disowned, when their families found out.

That the life of a sex worker entailed this degree of sacrifice was a perspective that I hadn’t considered. What a difficult life to lead, where the people you love the most don’t know what you do for a living. Where what brings food to your table is something you’re most ashamed of. Where you regard yourself as dirty for the work you do. Where your worthlessness is a foregone conclusion, because that’s what you are in the eyes of society.

The wisdom of Gangubai’s words (which I had read in the book, Mafia Queens of Mumbai, earlier this year) dawned upon me:

“A few handful of women who cater to the physical needs of men are actually protecting all of you from being attacked”…“Why is a jawan rewarded and given national honours, while prostitutes are insulted and treated like pariahs? Give me an answer”…“The only solution to the problem is by treating sex workers as equals. The day you manage to do this, I will believe that society has achieved “women empowerment”

These women didn’t need my sympathy. What I could give them, was my respect. Sex workers provide avenues to healthily channelise sexual urges in a society and may be instrumental in making the streets safer for women. The British, when they came to India, attached sex workers with every military company, and regulated prostitution through the Cantonment Acts. The Mughals, whose Court was adorned with tawaifs, administered the Husn-e-Bazaar in modern day Chawari Bazaar. Delhi-6 even has a Masjid colloquially known as ‘Randi ki Masjid’, which was built in honour of Mubarak Begum Mosque, the escort turned wife of Delhi’s first British Resident, David Ochterlony.

Love and lust were open conversations in early Indian society too, as borne proof by the Kama Sutra and the temples of Khajuraho. At what point did sex work become so stigmatic that it is barely found beyond the margins of public policy debate in India? That these kothas are situated outside the erstwhile fort walls of Shahjahanabd, a move by the then British Commissioner Garstin Bastion, speaks volumes about the progressive marginalisation of this vocation.

I ask this question because there are tangible drawbacks when sex work is stigmatized to the extent it has become in modern day India. First, I witnessed a fire in one of the kothis on G.B. Road one night, which was immediately doused by the Fire Department, and nobody was harmed. However, it left me wondering – if somebody was injured, does their profession allow them to claim health insurance? If something major happened, would they be able to speak up? In all probability, they would be compelled to hush it up, as the alternative could attract penal consequences, including stripping them of their livelihoods. Why were their living conditions so poor? Tens of women cramped in small kothas, even tinier rooms to impart their service, did it really have to be this way? Access to space is often a manifestation of the bargaining power one holds in society.

Second, these women are almost invisible citizens in their country. Their access to Constitutional and legal rights is compromised by virtue of the work they do. How often does one witness a sex worker in the corridors of a Court or even in the premises of a police station? In most cases, only when an extreme act of rape, murder or sexual assault occurs, are these incidents reported in the concerned agencies. The recent Supreme Court decision recognising sex work as a profession is a welcome move. This will pave the road to claiming Constitutional benefits under Article 19(1)(g).

None of this is to deny the ills of the flesh trade, the number of kidnapped and missing children compelled into sex work or the unbearable horrors that many survivors of forced prostitution have had to endure. Nor does this condone crimes committed by some sex workers, such as extortion, which is sometimes reported from G.B. Road.

Nevertheless, the dark side of sex work is exacerbated by the societal view which regards such work as ‘dirty’. According these workers dignity and infusing transparency into the profession through the process of destigmatisation can help legally regulate sex work, enabling consent to take centre stage. Just maybe, Gangubai’s prophecy will be fulfilled and these women too, can be given a chance to hold their heads high with self-respect, during this lifetime.

Angels in Khakhi

My days often alternate between being overwhelmed and being humbled. Overwhelmed because being in public service, particularly policing, is so challenging. Confronting the complexity of life is unavoidable, but it shakes you out of the cocoon of judgments and biases. That reality does not exist in absolutes, but in degrees, is an overwhelming prospect. It means unlearning everything, giving up fixed notions, and becoming open. Open to people, open to experiences and open to different versions of the same truth. A natural consequence of this, is being humbled. Of course one is going to be humbled when the foundations of holier than thou opinions collapse in the face of reality.

Today afternoon, a really drunk man, stood on a ledge, with a noose around his neck and a suicide note in his hand. He had debts, his family life was in tatters, he had had a rough childhood and a rough life. He didn’t want to live anymore. There was no reason to. He called his family. He couldn’t bear to leave without saying bye, although he had already done it in the note. Perhaps, he wanted to hear their voices one last time. His unsuspecting family members, not realising the clock was ticking, chatted like it was just another day. Until he called his brother. He couldn’t keep it to himself any longer. He was going to die, he said. Where are you? His panicked brother asked, but he had hung up.

His brother called up the Police Control Room, which in turn informed the Sub-Inspector (SI) on duty, who had just finished with a busy first half, and was settling down for lunch. The SI dropped everything, immediately retrieved the location of the person and reached the place, an abandoned house, in the nick of time. A minute later, and the man would have been dead. Life and death, the daily themes of policing. With the help of the rescue team, he was convinced to get down, and was brought to the police station.

My father titled his book about the police, ‘Carnage by Angels’. I understand it better now.

The image of the three police officials keeping down a drunk, suicidal man in the police station, trying to get him to drink water while comforting his hysterical, aged mother who was clinging to his feet, in the midst of his other relatives, seemed to me a desi modern day rendition of a Raphael painting. Except, this time, the angels weren’t dressed in white, they were in khakhi. The man, along with his family, was escorted to the hospital and admitted to the psychiatric ward. For now, he is safe.

Attempt to suicide is not a crime. There will be no FIR, no NC in this matter. It will never make the newspaper headlines. This aspect of policing doesn’t sell. It just doesn’t invoke fear and hate but a sense safety and trust, who wants to read about that?

I feel so, so humbled by the responses of the SI and the other staff at the police station. I’m going to overuse this term, because it’s true. How many times have I, myself, villianised the police? Often with good reason but as I watched the compassion they exhibited towards this struggling man and his family, I realise how much more there is to the police. Everyday stories from the police station, particularly for people who cannot afford justice, are never heard. This work is not visibilised and mainstream narratives have been so one sided.

But now, I am seeing the compassionate functions they perform. I remember reading a paper from the book ‘The British Police’, calling them the ‘secret social service’. The social service functions of the police cannot be ignored. The amount of conflict resolution done by the police goes way beyond their legally prescribed duties. Yet, if they don’t do it, who will?

On a side note, AN has the second highest suicide rate in the country, just a few points behind Sikkim. Documenting these unnatural deaths makes me see how complicated family lives can be. How are you all? Are you well? Are you taking care of yourself? Do you know that you matter and your life has worth no matter what you do, who you are, who loves you (or doesn’t) and how you look? Just wanted to say I love you, to whoever is reading. Thanks for being born, your life matters ❤

We Didn’t Start the Fire, but We Can Surely Stop It

“How on earth will I escape if a fire breaks out?” 
I looked around nervously at the 300-odd students packed with me in the basement of a premier coaching centre for the civil services exam in Old Rajinder Nagar, Delhi. I had travelled all the way from Mumbai and burnt significant holes in my pocket to be here, but in an overstuffed classroom with no fire exit in view, no visible sprinklers and no idea where the fire extinguisher was placed, it was my own burning that I was now more worried about.

The Mukherjee Nagar coaching centre fire last month was a tragedy waiting to happen, and before this fades into the depths of our collective conscience, it is necessary we ask ourselves: why have we normalised such unsafe environments?

Complex Legal Architectures and Multiple Authorities

Preliminary findings trace the fire’s origin to a snag in the electric metres of the building. However, given the recurrent fires due to similar reasons, such as in Surat in 2019, it would be sheer folly to ignore the systemic causes which kindle it. The commoditisation of education has resulted in an indiscriminate construction of coaching centres which are often at odds with prevailing construction regulations.

Cities like Delhi have comprehensive legal structures to ensure construction is in line with requisite safety norms. However, this legal complexity turns into an anathema when it gives rise to multiple implementation authorities lacking ground-level coordination.

The Construction Phase: Delhi Development Authority and Delhi Municipal Corporation

Section 12 of the Delhi Development Act, 1957 mandates that the development of areas must be in strict accordance with plans, violation of which can attract a penalty of 6 months rigorous imprisonment. Section 30 also provides the Delhi Development Authority the power to demolish such buildings. 

Accordingly, development plans are formulated by the Delhi Development Authority, the Delhi Development Plan of 2041 being the latest. The plan classifies coaching centres as educational facilities, requiring them to have at least two staircases and other fire safety provisions. 

The Unified Building Bye-Laws, 2016 make the implementation of Chapter IV of the National Building Code, 2005, which provides exhaustive measures for fire and life safety, mandatory for all buildings. These aspects are implemented by the Delhi Development Authority and the Delhi Municipal Corporation.

The Nodal Agency: Delhi Fire Services

The Delhi Fire Services also plays an instrumental role from firefighting to fire prevention, drawing its exhaustive powers from the Delhi Fire Services Act, 2007 and the Delhi Fire Services Rules, 2010. Rule 35 mandates the issuance of a Fire Safety Certificate by the Director, while Rule 27 allows for preventive measures for buildings classified as having a higher risk of fire, which includes educational buildings with two stories and more.

The First Responder: Delhi Police

The Delhi Police is also tasked under Section 60(m) to “use his best endeavours to prevent any loss or damage by fire”, giving them powers of inspection and supervision in matters of fire safety. They are also one of the first responders in fire outbreaks and are responsible for investigating fire incidents and overseeing the prosecution of culpable persons.

Absence of coordination between all these authorities results in deep-rooted corruption exacerbated by builder lobbies motivated by FSI maximisation. This takes a toll on construction ethics in society, with open spaces and other safety regulations being the first to take a hit.

A Plan for Integrated Risk Management

To address these issues, we need to formulate an integrated risk management plan, which examines the entire lifecycle of fire prevention and clearly delineates the roles and responsibilities of agencies associated at every stage. 

For starters, we need to recognise that the grant of construction permits by the Delhi Municipal Corporation and Delhi Development Authority, the no objection certificates by the Delhi Fire Services and the responsibility of fire prevention and imposition of penal consequences by the Delhi Police, don’t exist in silos but are part of a broader framework of fire safety.

The plan must view fire prevention as an ecosystem, factoring in the risks and actions to be taken at all stages of fire prevention, such as grant of licences, construction and post-construction inspection, awareness campaigns, firefighting responses, police action in prosecuting the culpable persons and data analysis for evidence-based law making. This can help address the challenge of fire prevention holistically and not in a piecemeal, knee-jerk fashion.

Such a plan may also require the rationalisation of existing laws, so that the existing confusion can be done away with and effective mechanisms for coordination can be devised.

Coaching Centres as Educational Facilities

Another uncertainty that prevails is whether coaching centres qualify as educational facilities. As lakhs of students flock to coaching hubs in the locality, and far flung areas like Kota and Delhi, to supplement their school education, norms for fire safety of these centres must become equivalent to those of schools and colleges.

The Unified Building Bye Laws for Delhi, 2016, define ‘Educational Buildings’ as “any building used for school, college or day-care purposes for more than 8 hours per week involving assembly for instruction, education or recreation.” These buildings must meet a higher threshold of construction norms. For instance, basements can be converted for the purpose of study only if they meet fire safety requirements, and a minimum of 1 m² net space per student must be provided. However, whether coaching centres fit the above definition of ‘Educational Buildings’ is a matter of debate.

While the Delhi Fire Services Rules, 2010 classify “educational buildings having height more than 9 meters” as “likely to cause a risk of fire”,  the phrase ‘Educational Buildings’ is not defined. The Delhi Development Plans, on the other hand, classify coaching centres as ‘Educational Facilities’ and require them to meet the same construction parameters applicable to schools.

Impact of Avinash Mehrotra v. Union of India

There are significant benefits associated with classifying coaching centres as ‘Educational Buildings’. In 2009, in the wake of a fire tragedy that killed 93 children in a private school in Kumbakonam District, Tamil Nadu, the Supreme Court in Avinash Mehrotra v. Union of India held that the right to education under Article 21A required the State to provide a safe school environment for children. The Apex Court also directed that Chapter IV of the National Building Code of India be mandatorily implemented in all schools across India.

The impact of this judgment is visible on the Delhi Fire Services website, where a majority of the recent objections regarding fire compliances have been raised against schools. Tough measures, such as revoking operational permissions and demolition in extreme cases, have acted as a strong incentive for schools to invest in fire safety mechanisms.

Moreover, the same children that attend these schools are the ones that will attend these coaching institutes, leaving no rationale for the arbitrary distinction between schools, colleges and coaching centres when it comes to fire safety.

Adequacy of Our Firefighting Response

A grave consequence of the violation of fire safety laws is that unsafe buildings become the norm. In order to cut costs, open spaces, multiple fires exists, installation of fire fighting equipment such as sprinklers, spacious basements and public address systems stipulated in the abovementioned legislations are the first to be dispensed with.

Videos on Twitter show students in Mukherjee Nagar breaking glasses and rappelling down wires in a bid to save themselves. Such a situation creates a catch-22 situation for the trapped occupants: if the fire doesn’t kill them, the escape definitely will. While we were fortunate that no lives were lost in this incident, the students in Surat in 2019 and the youngsters in Kamla Mills, Mumbai in 2017 were not as lucky.

This indicates that we need to anticipate fires and take our responses more seriously. Prompt action by the Fire Services, which is dependent on the open spaces left by builders for entry of fire brigades, functional firefighting equipment in the building and a sound understanding of fire drills by the occupants can enable a safe and orderly exit, preventing a fire hazard from turning into a disaster. 

Mass Awareness about Fire Safety

With adequate knowledge of fire safety, gains can also be made at a mass level. A recent fire in Jamia Colony in Delhi saw residents jumping to their deaths, as the fire brigade found it difficult to enter the narrow streets thereby jeopardising rescue efforts. 

In response, the Residents Welfare Associate has formulated a DIY rescue plan in consultation with the Jamia Nagar Police Station. Residents have created improvised fire escapes by tying thick jute ropes with knots to their balconies, kept buckets of sand to douse fires and installed automatic fire extinguisher balls. 

Similar community policing efforts, along with conducting routine mock drills in every coaching centre, will help tackle the fear in students. Simple steps like collating all fire safety information on a single website can also vastly enhance public awareness.

Making the Same Mistake Twice: Adopting a ‘Growth Mindset’ in Public Policy

In spite of tragic, recurrent fires, such as the ones mentioned above, we continue to rely on knee-jerk responses, which often descend into blame games and apathy. As a consequence, the same tragedies repeat, albeit in different forms. To counter this, it is necessary that we, as a society, adopt a growth mindset to tackle issues of public policy.

In her book, ‘Mindset’, Carol Dweck advocates that our approach to challenges needs to transition from a ‘fixed mindset’ motivated by societal validation and a need to be correct, to a mindset rooted in growth. A ‘growth mindset’ accepts that perfection doesn’t exist and the focus is on learning and making improvements, rather than placing blame. 

Creating a National Database: Learning from the UK

To truly reduce the risk of fire in an individual’s environment, we must begin by acknowledging that no one individual is responsible for such fire tragedies. They are the outcome of default at multiple levels, by various stakeholders. To identify these defaults, we need to chart a policy ecosystem which relies on data led interventions. 

Inspiration can be taken from the United Kingdom’s ‘Incident Reporting System’ which creates a national database of fire related information through in-depth examination of fire incidents. Every fire outbreak is examined and it asks a host of questions, such as the origin of the report, the cause of fire and the reasons for failures of fire safety systems. Strong quality control checks filter spurious data, providing a sound dataset for analysis of trends in fire outbreaks. This makes the firefighting responses more dynamic and facilitates far-sighted planning.

With a similar system in place, we can make our fire prevention efforts more focused. For instance, if we had enough data to analyse how often electric short circuits on the ground floor cause fire hazards, we could’ve anticipated the Mukherjee Nagar incident and taken precautionary measures. Data-led decision making will improve the efficacy of our regulations, check arbitrary inflation of building costs and optimise budget allocation, enabling the Delhi Fire Services to effectively utilise the Rs. 300 crores received from the Delhi Government last year.

The Worth of an Indian’s Life: Investing in an Ecosystem of Safety

The National Building Code, 2005, the country’s foremost guide on fire safety, acknowledges that “absolute safety from fire is not attainable in practice”. However, it argues that measures can be put into place to provide a “degree of safety from fire which can be reasonably achieved.” It is these measures of safety that must become non-negotiable in all our transactions.

Ultimately, it comes down to one simple thing: the worth of a human life in India. The measures we take for our safety are directly correlated to how much we value our lives. In spite of Article 21, the right to life has not yet become the driving force of our society or state structures. When the acknowledgement of the profound value of human existence becomes the guiding principle of public policy, we will invest more in creating an ecosystem of safety when it comes to fire prevention. 

All that a society receives is what it is willing to accept. Fire outbreaks turn into tragedies only when they’re allowed to become one. When we start valuing human life and demand better of ourselves and our society, higher standards of fire prevention will invariably prevail.

Reflections on the ITBP Attachment

Rock Climbing: Natural and Artificial Wall

When I was young, I really loved adventure. Adventure, as I have come to understand, is different from recklessness. According to the Mac iOS dictionary, it means “an unusual and exciting or daring experience”. That really brings out my love for life.

Today, we had our first day at the ITBP attachment at Mussoorie. I loved it. I didn’t anticipate how much I’d like it, but I really did. There’s something I realised from the 500 metre swimming challenge I did on Saturday: it’s not about completing, it’s about how much I can keep going. At some point, the tiredness and the doubts were overtaken by a voice which said, “this is so much fun, keep going!” That was the point I really started to enjoy it.

I really can keep going. I know it. Today in rock climbing too, it was challenging, it held my attention, and I really loved it. I love challenges. I love seeing what I’ve got in me.

We had to rappel down, do rock climbing, knotted rope rock climbing and artificial wall climbing. I did an extra one, because it was just so much fun. I feel I was a monkey in my last life. When I was younger, I’d just spend so much time swinging on banyan trees, hanging upside down on bars…rock climbing reminded me of those carefree days, and told me, I absolutely can live like that again. I do want to say, the ITBP personnel were simply fantastic. In terms of their own skills, and how carefully they handled us, who were doing rock climbing for the first time. Some pro-tips I learnt:

• The relationship between the rock climber and belly-er is sacred. They latter guides the former. If you listen to them, half your job is done. Also, “belly tight” is the real deal.
• Rock climbing, contrary to its appearance, depends more on climbing with legs rather than hands. Find your hold and push upwards.
• State of mind is everything. Leaving things to God, the universe, and just enjoying the moment for what it is, is super satisfying.
• Figure the route out in advance. It really helps save time and energy while climbing, and makes it a lot easier.
• No matter how well you think you’ve climbed, literally more than half the job is done by the support staff, who keep your safety in check. Just the thought that my safety was in the hands of such competent ITBP personnel allowed me to focus solely on climbing.
• Lastly, it really is all about the mind. As I allowed the voice which said, “you can do it, keep going, just keep going, this is easy” to take over, I was centred. I was done before I even knew it.

Some takeaways:

1. I left the artificial wall towards the end not because I ran out of strength, but I ran out of confidence. I thought I couldn’t do it. But the moment I left it, I realised, I could’ve easily done it. I could’ve kept at it. Now I definitely will do it. I am going to climb that artificial wall in NPA.
2. Be proactive in your mind. Affirmations are powerful. Use them proactively.

STAR Race

The STAR race was similar to the route march of NPA. What was different was how breathtaking the grand Himalayas are. I found the obstacles rather enjoyable. The only one which was a bit of a challenge was carrying a person on a makeshift stretcher. The safety of the person was something that worried us, but we managed smoothly. Throughout the 20 km STAR race, Ajay introduced me to so many birds like the Himalayan bulbul, scarlet minivets and Eurasian lapwings. He taught me how to observe birds, adding another layer to my perspectives of reality.

Battle Inoculation and IMA Visit

The battle inoculation was something else all together. Crawling our way through muddy trenches, trying to find the balance of air between muddy waters and barbed wires, for a second, I couldn’t believe what I was doing. This was occurring under live fire, smoke screens and tear gas. Sometimes I cannot believe the turn my life has taken. I never imagined I’d be doing these things. That experience enriched me in a way that no war museum ever could. As I made my way, I understood that there is nothing pretty, nothing glorious about war. While it’s great to be mentally tough and impervious to situations on the outside, do I really want to spend my life in trenches, killing people, but above all, fighting someone else’s war?

The answer is a resounding no. Our societies can do so much more without our people. Our people can do so much more with their precious lives. I really respect the sacrifice made by our military and paramilitary. There’s no question about it. The way the IMA trains its “Gentlemen Cadets” (love the phraseology), is intense. From the mobile check post demonstrations to weapons training, their skills are admirable. The kind of confidence, effort and discipline they develop is unmatched, and their sacrifices are immeasurable. However, as Lao Tsu puts it, the greatest warriors are those who win without fighting, and rightly so. The outcome of a war is never pretty. We owe it to our soldiers and our people to be proactive in our policies, to choose peace over war. Conflict and friction is inevitable, that is the cycle of maya, of creation and destruction. The degree of it, is not. Most of it is avoidable; the remaining, necessary, for growth.

The IMA visit also got me thinking about the relations between the Army and the police, how important they are, and how can we improve trust. How can we capitalise on the best aspects of both to create synergy?

Dinner with DGP

The dinner with the DGP was one of the most pleasant occasions, as we got to have informal conversations with someone who is a treasure trove of experiences. He was so warm, forthcoming and seemed really passionate about his work. The question answer session enabled us to discuss issues plaguing Uttarakhand like unruly traffic and drunk driving. The cultural allowed us learn more about our batchmates talents. The food was really good, especially the gulab jamun and ice-cream. This dinner made me realise the importance of the art of hosting .

River Rafting

The ITBP took us river rafting in the Ganges. We did a 30 km stretch and it was exhilarating. The last few years of my life have been devoid of nature, minus the occasional travels and the sea, of course. The sea has been a constant in my life, I always find myself coming back to it. However, I stopped being nature’s child. When I was young, I wanted to hang out in nature all the time. I just wanted to be around greenery. As I grew up, I stopped appreciating nature. But nature is overwhelming. The love she gives us is gargantuan, nothing can compete. Not even a parent’s love. Just swimming in the Ganges, as the sun set over her, the turquoise transitioning into gold under the alchemy of the sun’s rays, I felt so tiny, but not inconsequential. I don’t think my life is inconsequential. This whole universe is dancing to a divine tune, and I am part of it. When nature is so grand, it follows by inference, so are we. The Himalayas, the trees, the Ganges and Rishikesh, they’re so timeless. Ages and people come and go, but these places retain their charm.

I enjoy adventure sports so much. I definitely want to learn kayaking. Rafting, kayaking, rock climbing, trekking, really allow one to merge with the serenity of nature. The ITBP’s expertise was excellent, and I really hope I can come back and learn from them someday.

FRI Visit

The visit to FRI today was breath taking. The campus is straight out of a book. I really wish I had spent more time there. They even have a reserved forest within its precincts. Next time. We learnt about the work done by the academy. What I liked the most was the experiential approach adopted by them. Also conversing with batchmates who have a passion for the environment. It really inspired me, as it encouraged me to be more proactive about the environmental changes we can make in our lifestyles and institutionally. For instance, I invested in a takeaway coffee mug to reduce the number of cups I use for tea/coffee on a daily basis in order to minimise the waste I generate. Small lifestyle changes will do wonders for the environment, so will an assessment of NPA’s carbon footprint!

My First Police Station Attachment

On 2nd February, 2023, we were dispatched to different police stations across the city of Hyderabad to experience firsthand what policing at the grassroots looks like. Sudhanshu and I were allotted SR Nagar Police Station (https://hyderabadpolice.gov.in/ps/ps_srnagar.html), which incidentally had won the ‘Best Police Station’ Award in 2021 in Telangana. The SHO (Station House Officer) told us they were second by a minuscule margin in 2022. As our car rolled in to the police station, I had to stop and check if we were in the right place. Instead of an old, worn out building with paint peeling off which is typical of a sarkari office (and Worli Police Station), we were greeted with a corporate styled building which had an aura of professionalism. Our car parked on the ground floor next to the patrol vehicles. Hyderabad city police has Innovas for patrolling, which look like this:

These vehicles play a pertinent role in ‘visible policing’ which I will go into later.

As we got off, we noticed two rooms on the ground floor, one for CCTNs, and another control room for CCTV monitoring. The technology used in both blew me away. Everything is so streamlined and systematic. The eCops CCTNs has proformas for the entire criminal law process. From Complaints to FIR, Pre-Crime/Crime Scene Management, Panchnamas, Investigation, Statement, Final Report, Trial etc. The whole system is constantly updated so one can trace the status, outcome, documents in all cases. The fact that it is linked to a central database, making information gathering and sharing extremely effective, and is going to do wonders for policing, crime control and transparency.

The CCTV control room was also extremely impressive, so much tracing can be done through it. The App integrating CCTVs across Hyderabad was also really cool. How is Hyderabad Police so ahead in technology really needs to be a case study.

Next, we went upstairs, though in retrospect I didn’t check for an elevator, so can’t comment on accessibility. The stairs were lined with green plants and posters communicating important aspects of policing (friendly, she teams, responsibilities of police, cyber crime) to citizens. There was a waiting area with nice, silver steel chairs and a hospitable constable at the reception. There was a separate room next to the reception for ‘Women’s Help Desk’ and a desk to receive ‘Dial 100’ complaints which were forwarded to patrol vehicles through wireless, to go and check in on the complainants.

A Station Incharge maintained the duty roster, general diary and FIR Index. The Station Writer is responsible for maintaining records, and was responsible for assisting SHOs. The role of a Station Writer is reported here: https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/bengaluru/the-invisible-dr-watsons-of-police-force-the-writers-at-the-station/articleshow/55280276.cms.

There was a lock-up, which actually had an accused at night by the time we left. The SR Nagar police had arrested a Nigerian national accused of drug trafficking in Bangalore and had brought him back to Hyderabad to face trial. It was very interesting to watch, the Police were courteous and fed him well. Many had to do night duty to maintain security. The lock up did not have anything, no fan (though it was cool), no blanket because there is always a concern that the accused may commit suicide. Placing this here for future reference: https://bprd.nic.in/WriteReadData/userfiles/file/201611160113193160865EffectivePoliceCustodyManagement(MM05).pdf

We entered the SHOs office, who was on a morning concall with the DCP. Through videoconferencing, coordination between different zones and police stations has become much better. They were discussing some ways to improve motivation within the workforce and the security arrangements for the Assembly session.

We learnt more about the police station, which had a 10 km jurisdiction, had registered 131 FIRs in the month of January. They have a Petition Management System which digitises all complaints received. There was a waiting area outside the SHOs room, where the Complainants were interacting with SIs and the SHO too. On the second floor was the Crime Department, headed by an Inspector. In total, there were two inspector level officers in the police station. It was divided into 9 sectors (the area) and one SI was allotted to each sector.

We went through the records, and did part of our assignment. I finally got to eat good veg biryani for lunch, though none have come close to Meghana’s level. Post lunch, we toured the rest of the police station – the record room, the barracks, the gym room and went through case files. There was an emotional outburst between a mother and her minor son who had been caught for theft. The police, I observed, also play an integral role of emotional counselling and mediation, way beyond their official mandate. Some of the citizens in that police station deeply relied on the police officials to resolve their grievances. Most of it was extremely professional.

We then went for patrolling, where we learnt the nitty grittier of patrolling. The purpose it serves, the methods used and the factors considered while deciding the focus areas in patrolling. This too was entirely digitised and updates were made on a tab. The amount of technology deployed by Hyderabad police is simply impressive. During our night patrol, we saw how necessary it is to deter gangs of eve-teasers that were waiting in corners to harass female students (it was a coaching centre/software area). The patrolling also brought to life the concept of ‘visible policing’ as police officers standing in regions at frequent intervals not only increases the sense of safety of citizens, but also become repositories of relief. Citizens come to them and explain their problems directly, many of which can be resolved on the spot. Ours was largely a middle class area, and some marketplaces. As our vehicle crossed, I didn’t see any fear, intimidation or wonder in the eyes of passersby. There seemed to be a sense of comfort with the police. Of course, since this was only for 12 hours, this is only a prima facie observation.

We also spent time with the traffic policing, checking drunk driving and that was really eye-opening. Traffic police personnel stand for hours at a stretch, checking vehicles and are vulnerable to pollution and injury due to speeding vehicles. Breath analysers are used on two levels, to be doubly sure of the result. Some citizens made a u-turn the moment they realised checking was happening ahead. A couple simply refused to blow into the straw when they realised they were going to get caught. I don’t understand why people drink and drive. Not only are you endangering your own life but also of those around you.

Having said that, I noticed that only people hailing from a certain socio-economic strata on two wheelers were getting caught. Those that couldn’t afford the luxury of hiring a driver. Same goes for the Complainants. Most of the people that fall into the mesh of the criminal justice system somehow hail from the same socio-economic background. Moreover, the State benefits from the revenue purchases from the same people it is fining for drunk driving. This is a conundrum that requires a deeply thought out resolution.

All in all, it was an interesting day. Hyderabad police is extremely professional and their use of technology is simply superb. Most of the cases that came our way were non-heinous offences like theft, cheating, vehicular offences,. For a young probationer waiting to solve complex, convoluted cases, this was rather anti-climactic. A peaceful locality meant a largely uneventful patrolling. This brought me to the sombre realisation that the more effective the police, the more peaceful the society, the lesser the need for its intervention. This is the paradox of policing. As we get better, either our visible, active roles will shrink or our identity will undergo a fundamental transformation. It will be interesting to watch how this plays out in the future.

Lohe Jaisi Himmat

Moulding a police officer requires a lot more effort than I had anticipated. It’s easy to judge, harder to understand and hardest to endure. Training is challenging, and we just finished Week 4. As I struggled out of bed this morning to attend the Makar Sankranti celebrations (but made it!), I can see the extent to which the human body can endure. However, how we endure is completely upto us. This line from Man’s Search for Meaning sums it up – “Everything can be taken from a man but one thing: the last of the human freedoms—to choose one’s attitude in any given set of circumstances, to choose one’s own way.”

This is something I am learning. 27 feels like a coming of age, as I grapple with the fact that my life is not a reaction. Irrespective of how I live, small, large, bold, meek, strong, weak…let it be me. Let it be because I choose to live that way, not because I must. This agency is something that everyone possesses, and perhaps, life is all about recognising that. Which is why, at the end of four weeks, I can say, I am really enjoying this experience.

Yes, there are days I wish I could skip, but here, everything has a consequence. There is no concept of bunking. If you go to the hospital, you will make up for missed classes and activities on the weekend. I have to say, I really treasure my weekend like never before. Just sitting in my room, unwinding, doing nothing, is so essential to my soul, especially after such intense activity! That makes me super disciplined about the entire week. My body’s internal clock is also incredible. I find myself waking up just before the alarms and don’t find myself oversleeping. My relationship with time is being redefined, and I am loving it. The same is happening with my mind, I find I have a choice every single moment. Either I can affirm I am tired, or I can say, I have so much left in me, I can keep going. In a second the entire perspective shifts. We are such powerful beings.

Also with integrity and trust. Integrity and trust is ultimately about being honest with oneself. I find myself unwilling to make excuses anymore. I just don’t see why must I. If I can do it, I will. If I can’t do it, let’s say because of an injury, I will respect that too. I want to honour the trust another has reposed in me, but above all, I want to honour my own!

How often we are raised not to trust ourselves. However, something I’ve repeatedly heard our instructors say is that be confident. You will make mistakes, but don’t doubt yourself. Be open to learning and improving, but do every thing with a sense of confidence. I really like that and I am trying to implement it. Every day I learn so much at NPA, the learning curve is 90 degrees!

On Friday, we had our first collective punishment as a batch. A run of 5 kilometres, because some people left for their hostels without informing the Squad Instructors. Imagine having an assignment to submit by 12 am (which we did) or having made Friday night plans or just being really exhausted (you start your day at 4.30 AM) or hungry and suddenly you’re summoned to the stadium at 8 PM for fall in and punishment. All those expectations and plans suddenly go down the drain, and you have done nothing wrong! I guess that’s how Ministers feel when they have to resign as a whole for one person’s scandal. Nevertheless, this is beginning to instil in me a deeper sense of responsibility. We were told, there is individual responsibility and there is collective responsibility. There is a lot of wisdom to this. As a public servant, no longer can I be a self serving individual, thinking only about my own needs. If earlier I was lax, even individually, I don’t have the right to be that way anymore. In addition to that, I must bear responsibility for that which I represent. There is no question of whether I did it or not. As a team, we are all responsible for one another.

A lawyer’s job can often be a solitary one, particularly a litigator’s. This is in stark contrast to the Police, where we are responsible for not just our own conduct but for the conduct of those we lead and those we serve. Inculcating this sense of ownership over oneself and ones surroundings is sine qua non for creating more effective institutions of public service delivery and for ensuring justice is done. As I sign off, I must record, singing the Academy song every single morning is such a wonderful experience because the lyrics are so inspiring.

For those who haven’t heard it – https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R56NR9Z6dTo

A Course in Chi Running

The first week at NPA is almost over. Today we had a full day workshop on Chi running, and it was incredibly eye-opening. Chi running is derived from the philosophy of tai-chi, where energy is directed in the most natural manner. This optimises the amount of effort we put into our running, making it more enjoyable and reduces the chances of injury.

I started running when I was in college, and it was really life-changing for me. I can still hear the rustle of the trees around Bangalore University, where I’d go running every morning. From not being able to run 2 minutes, I clocked in over 16 kilometres, and found myself cycling and swimming too. It took a while, but I finally understood that limitations are myths.

I stopped running at some point, but this class in Chi running really made me realise, it’s time to take it up again, in a better form!

Chi running is all about posture. I had no idea that a simple act of standing could be done inefficiently, which increases chances of injury. Following the principle of needle and cotton, you are expected to engage your core, align your centre, while relaxing your shoulders, knees etc. Essentially, running must feel effortless, and it really does.

The key is to keep your posture naturally aligned, so that you aren’t spending energy inefficiently. Turns out, poor posture habits actually require more effort. Even the simple act of focusing at a point while walking improves ones posture and performance.

The crux of Chi running is falling. Yes, falling is crucial, which means trusting and letting go at some point is necessary. What surprises you is that you thought you needed to control the body, but the body knows exactly what to do. As you fall forward towards the ground, the right leg sticks out, then the left, and if you let go and keep going, you’ll find yourself running rather effortlessly. The body takes care of us. It would do good to remember that.

Some other interesting learnings were:

1. Never lock your knees, keep them loose
2. How you live every moment impacts the quality of your run e.g. posture, standing
3. Swing your arms in V-shape, not straight, that’s the most natural way (this is such a game changer)
4. Stand on one leg whenever you can, it does wonders for stability

That’s it for today, early morning fall in is calling!

Note to self: learn more about how the human body works

The NPA Journey Begins

Today was effectively our first day at NPA. Our fall in was at 5.40 am, and I found myself up the moment the alarm rang at 5 am. The thing travel teaches you is punctuality. You never realise how many skills you learn when you plan and execute a trip until you come back to every day existence. If you are late, you will miss the bus. If you are early, a lot of things go smoothly. In the UK for instance, public transport timings are so precise, it feels like a sin not to plan your time. Also, when you begin planning your time, you can be so much more proactive about your life. Something that actually makes me look forward to punctuality is my watch. I transitioned from a small dial analog and a smart watch whose battery was exhausted every 24 hours (I’d keep switching) to a good old analog which a big dial. The watch is so clean and effective at what it does, which is showing the time, I can’t help but find truth in that UPSC essay topic – simplicity is (truly) the ultimate sophistication.

NPA seems daunting, not in terms of the physical aspect, which of course will be a test of mental strength and courage, but in terms of the responsibility one assumes. Having practiced as a lawyer, I have seen the impact the police have on people’s lives and liberties. Be it Swapna’s case or the manual scavenging one, proactive, impartial and fair policing can do wonders for society. At the same time, the notion of a uniformed service is challenging my thinking. Of course it exists, is necessary, and 8 year old Isha would be over the moon wearing the uniform. However, after visiting the Killing Fields and Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum/S-21 Prison of Phnom Penh, as well as the Derek Chauvin case, I just think the uniform should be a sign of responsibility, public service, teamwork and not of mindless conformity.

There is nothing wrong with conformity in and of itself, when it is done intentionally, to achieve a purpose. Because the drops conform, the ocean arises. Conformity can enable order, which allows peace to flourish, a prerequisite for creative diversity to shine. The Police are the first responders in society. That is why, as I undergo this training and don the uniform, I must keep reminding myself, the number of push-ups I do or the kilometres I run are for myself. How much I test my endurance and how honest I am to my capabilities and potential is on me. How much longer should an external reward motivate my actions? In the precious moments we have on earth, it’s important to be true to the song in your heart, whatever it may be. As a public servant, I no longer want to take the liberty of acting on impulse, or because of extraneous rewards or punishments. I want to be mindful and think through things. If I get better, it’s because I want to, because it will enable me to serve better, which is something I want to do. That is perhaps, the fine line between intentional responsibility and mindless conformity. Time will tell! For now, I’m really enjoying my time in Hyderabad, feeling blessed to be given this opportunity,

One of My Most Precious Possessions – A Letter from Ribeiro sir

My 2012 Visit to Saudi Arabia

When I was in the 12th grade, I was so overcome with curiosity about the way Saudi women lived, I convinced my mother to take me there. I cam back and poured my heart out in this article, part of which got published in the Times of India, Student Edition (my Vice-Principal recommended it).

Times of India NIE article:

Original article:

Saudi Arabia: The Land of Paradoxes

Oil. Money. Terrorism. Desert. Conservative. 

This was precisely my opinion of the middle east, Saudi Arabia in particular. Being one of the very few absolute monarchies in existence and notorious for its iniquitous treatment of women, I was quick to assume the country and its society to be retrograde and regressive. I had read a few books on Saudi Arabia, written by Saudi women, citing their experiences as modern women shrouded by a society based on an ancient school of thought. I strongly felt for these women, knowing that they were just like me, with opinions, ambitions and selfhood, striving to be independent, the only difference being that they were chained by a sexist society who did not think much of its women, if it thought of them at all, and I was not. So when presented with the sudden opportunity to visit Saudi Arabia, I promptly seized it, curiosity and anger being the decision makers.

Unlike for other countries, getting a visa for Saudi Arabia is not an easy task at all. We had been told that women were not allowed to travel to Saudi Arabia without a male companion, which was quite ironic since it was the oppression of women in the country that my mother and I were going to study. It was our first encounter with the discriminatory policies against women. However, since we had received a diplomatic invite, we managed to get our visas without much of a hassle. As if the visa episode was not enough, it also turned out that my mother and I were the only two women on the flight, which was packed with Indians who were employed in the gulf region. In fact, while waiting in the queue to board the flight, a man politely informed us that the flight was going to Riyadh possibly thinking that we were boarding the wrong flight, and when we told him that we knew, he just stared at us as if he could not believe his eyes! This did a fair job of confirming my suspicions that this was not going to be a routine trip but more like an experience of a lifetime.

Before I take upon further exposition, I will briefly introduce you to the much hyped and extremely repressive laws of the country which are imposed upon the women and even the men, on certain occasions. The Kingdom of Saudi Arabia, situated in the middle east Asia, is ruled by the family of Al Sauds, King Abdullah being the present ruler. It is dominated by the Islamic Sharia law, the moral code of conduct of Islam. Probably one of its most repressive laws states that a women must always have a male guardian. The guardian’s permission for marriage and divorce; travel, if under forty five; education; employment; opening a bank account; elective surgery (particularly when sexual in nature), etc. is a necessity. This not only implies the inferiority of women, it also leaves them to the mercy of men, unable to make their own decisions. Another law states that a women must always cover her body with an abaya (body cloak) and hijab (head scarf) and preferably a niqab (cloth covering the face) when in the company of men other than her relatives (non Saudi women are also expected to wear the abaya, though not necessarily required to cover their head). It is also the only country in the world that bars women from driving. Men are allowed to keep up to four wives at a time. Alcohol is banned in Saudi Arabia as Islam does not permit consumption of it. If a person is caught stealing, his hands are chopped off (this happens in a public square popularly known as the ‘Chopping Square’). If the crime worsens, capital punishment is the outcome. Last year about eighty executions were carried out in the country. These laws are kept in check by the Mutaweens, the government recognized religious police, or the “guardians of Islam”, as they would like to call themselves. However, the locals think of them as nothing but people too big for their boots, only there to create unnecessary trouble.

It is said money can’t buy you happiness, but it can definitely buy you everything else. This country is living proof of it. Situated in the middle of the desert, Riyadh seems to be an oasis. This city has everything you can imagine, and everything you can’t imagine too. From 24X7 water supply to housing the largest women only university, it doesn’t fall short of being a land of paradoxes.  Princess Nura University  which spreads over 8 million square meters has a housing capacity of over 40,000 women and also has a monorail running in the campus! The workforce in the university largely consists of women and I even had the pleasure of meeting their sociology professor. She was a smart lady in a fancy abaya (we were later told that abayas  were “no longer just abayas”, they reflected a woman’s personality and taste) explained to me that many Saudi women and men go abroad for their university. If a person, irrespective of gender, cannot afford the education cost then the government funds them. This came as a surprise and also a challenge to my harsh opinions about the country’s sexist policies. While women are prohibited from studying subjects like engineering, journalism and are not allowed to vote or contest elections (although there is a monarchic rule, elections are held for determining almost all ministers) they are encouraged as much as their men are by their government to pursue higher education.

Being a country where oil is cheaper than water, a fortiori, the backbone of Saudi Arabia’s economy is oil.  Oil exports are what keep the government running and are what allow the Saudis to maintain their exorbitant lifestyles. In fact, we were briefed by a local that when a prince is born in the royal family (the members are too many to count, estimated to be around 15,000), from his birth to his death he is given a monthly allowance of 50,000 Saudi Riyals, which is equivalent to approximately 7,00,000 INR, by the Saudi Government! This means that they don’t need to worry about working, and they don’t, which leads me to wonder about their future situation when their oil will get exhausted. Although the princesses are to be funded by the male members of their family, it is hard to view this as sexist since going by their expenditure, it is evident that they face no shortage of wealth. Riyadh’s wealth is best showcased in its numerous malls, which serve to be the life of the city since any other kind of entertainment like movie theatres and bowling alleys are banned as they are considered to be “Un-Islamic”. 

A visit to the malls in Riyadh is a great learning experience in itself. It is where the conflict between the Saudi culture and modernism is seen at its best. Women wearing burkhas, covered from head to toe, are seen in stores like ‘ZARA’ and ‘CHANEL’ shopping for short dresses and “revealing” outfits. The scene brings out a huge contrast, not only in the dresses but also in the ideologies of the individuals and of the society. All shops, restaurants and  food courts are divided into the men’s section and the ladies/family section. Even while standing in the queue to place an order or to make payments, men and women are made to stand separately! It is startling to see how internationally renowned chains operated by liberal entrepreneurs bow to these oppressive customs. Teenage boys and girls trying to interact with each other without being caught by the religious police is another amusing and common sight to be seen in the malls. The innovative and skilful techniques they come up with is quite commendable and it also shows that harsher the laws, the more the deviants.

Since Islam directs its followers to pray five times a day, all markets and shops in the malls are shut down during prayer times. Although it disrupts daily activities, the religious police will not have it any other way, though many people do it in good faith. Even non-Muslims are forced to shut down their shops. Mosques, being in every street of Riyadh, ensure that during prayers the entire city is serenaded by the namaz, giving it an enchanting and spiritual edge, especially in the evenings.

The National Museum is a massive building displaying Saudi Arabia’s rich heritage and culture. Which viewing some ancient artefacts there, we were introduced to Maha, the director of the museum. Seeing a lady shouldering such a huge responsibility came as a pleasant surprise to us. Mahas story, by all means, is a truly inspirational one. Raised in a middle class, orthodox family, she overcame all obstacles with her brilliance and won a scholarship to Harvard University. As she told us this, she added that only after such exposure did she abandon wearing the niqab in Riyadh and stuck to covering her head, which all Saudi women are expected to do. Her humbleness along with her boldness struck me at the same time, giving rise to an instant spurt of admiration for this lady.

A function on International Women’s Day, organised by one of the embassies, was my second direct interaction with Saudi women, this time more in number. To say that all Saudi women feel oppressed would be a fallacy on my part. Quite a few women are satisfied by the working of their laws and are more than happy with their sybaritic existence sponsored by their husbands. But they too resonate a sense of independence and distinctiveness at the same time. It’s hard to explain how such extreme qualities go together. Seeing is believing, I’d say. But  simultaneously, I also met women who were teaching (85% of Saudi women are teachers, however, only 21% of the workforce comprises Saudi women), doctors, abaya designers and poets, fighting for change within the society and only on meeting them did I realize that the generalisation of the status of women  in Saudi Arabia is impossible. It is a different society, one that suppresses women and gives them freedom at the same time. From the outside, we often tend to stereotype and misunderstand the society. I did too, but when you see for yourself you realize that although change is required and is gradually taking place, there are sides to it, that are somewhat progressive in nature, that go unnoticed.

Another observation we made was that although the Government tries to liberalise a few policies, stiff opposition is put up by none other than the common man, the orthodox muftis and the Mutaweens. For example,  King Faisal, in the early 70s, instituted modern and secular reforms that led to the installation of televisions which provoked violent protests from the within the royal family and from the orthodox Muslims.  It was also under his rule that schools for girls were first opened in the kingdom. The move was unpopular, costing Faisal much support from the strict men of religion and other ultra-conservatives, who believed that women should remain in burkhas and without the benefits of education. He was assassinated in 1975.

In a country dominated by laws so procrustean and rigid, there lie individuals hidden behind black veils. However, the black veils succeed in covering only their physical form of existence, unable to conquer their thoughts, opinions, passions and ambitions. These individuals are battling constraints every day, exhibiting their desire for independence and freedom. A desire so intense that it is radiated by a simple look into the eyes of a Saudi lady. These eyes tell you that there is hope for a brighter future for the women of Saudi Arabia, that change is on its way, and the best is yet to come. These shining eyes peeping out from blacks veils are like stars brightening up the night skies, spreading light and hope to every corner. Like I said before, seeing is believing.

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Just yesterday I read an article in the Business Standard, outlining the liberal changes taking place in the lives of Saudi women (https://www.business-standard.com/article/opinion/change-is-afoot-in-saudi-arabia-122111502166_1.html), I knew it when I was 16!